Horizontal Waterfalls 11/8

It was quite a rush to get ready to be picked up by the shuttle bus as we had only arrived in town a couple of hours earlier, however we made it with a little time to spare. After completing his pick up run our driver delivered us to Derby airport just in time to watch our plane arrive. This will be our first flight on a seaplane of any kind (it can land at the airport because it has retractable landing gear in the floats) and it seemed quite large for a plane that only carries 10 passengers. Matt, our friendly young pilot, quickly carried out the safety briefing and loaded our luggage as we climbed aboard and fastened our seat belts. The powerful turbo-prop engine soon had us flying off over Derby and across King Sound and Stokes Bay then climbing over the Kimbolton Range. Below, the receding tide was leaving wonderful patterns in the exposed mud flats with the mangroves lining the twisting creeks creating a vibrant contrast to the glistening wet mud. The views during the 35-minute flight were absolutely terrific but were insignificant compared to our approach to Talbot Bay. We swooped low over the horizontal falls and circled the brilliant blue water of the bay before an immaculately executed smooth landing on the water.


The introductions and safety briefings were completed in a very short time and then, with life jackets firmly fitted, we boarded our specially designed high-speed boat for our ride through the falls. This boat can really move and you have to make sure your sunglasses and hats are very secure otherwise this wind in your face ride would soon have them ripped off. By now the tidal flow had reduced quite a bit and we were told that the falls were not very intense at this time. Well, this was news to us because it was still very thrilling as we powered through the churning waters of the first (and wider) set of falls, then zoomed off to the second (narrower) set that were even more turbulent. All in all we went through both sets of falls numerous times in both directions and even stopped in the middle a couple of times. Well the boat was actually doing about 30 Km/hr water speed and yet we were stationary compared the rocks on either side. With enough adrenalin pumping thrills for a while we were whisked right across the other side of Talbot Bay for a pleasant glide up Cyclone Creek where we could observe, close up, the twisted and tortured strata of the high rock walls of the bay. Then back across the bay to the day use boat for some afternoon tea and time for some fishing. The only decent fish caught were lost to the sharks, but judging by the size of the heads brought up, they were very decent fish indeed.


With sunset approaching we were transferred to the Lady M for our overnight stay. This vessel is 105 feet long and cost around $12 million to build and has every luxury one could ask for. The owners, Bill and Maria, and crew Theresa, welcomed us and showed us to our well-appointed large cabins (with full ensuite) to freshen up before dinner. Our skipper, Bill, cooked the best Barramundi we have ever had on the large BBQ under the canopy of the rear deck. Bill said it was his secret Italian style home made infused oil used in the cooking that made the difference. The girls served up a delicious selection of salads and a potato bake to complement the Barra and we dined in splendour on the back deck enjoying the last fading colours of evening. After such a thrilling day all on board were so tired that everyone went off to bed quite early.


Just as well that we turned in early because our wake up call came at about 5.45 am so we could be up and ready to watch the sunrise before a sumptuous breakfast. The real reason for our early start was that the tide was just right and the falls were really pumping and our fast thrill boat would be here soon to pick us up. If we thought it was exciting yesterday, well, this morning it was something else. Think of the wildest white-water rapids you have seen and then multiply it several times and you would be getting close to the volume of water crashing through the opening in the rock walls. Even though it looked impossible we made the run through the first falls with the powerful boat doing it with ease. Unfortunately we do not have any photos of this as we were advised to keep our cameras stowed away to protect them from the inevitable spray. Across the bay to have a look at the second falls but there was no way we were going through. As the boat nudged up towards the falls, beyond the white water we could see a vertical wall of water about 2 metres high trying to squeeze through the narrow gap. That was close enough for us and so off we went back across the bay, and for good measure we went through the first fall a couple more times in each direction. If anyone was still not fully awake before this morning adventure they certainly were now. Before our hearts and minds had fully settled down we were back on the pontoon awaiting the arrival of our seaplane for the flight back to Derby. The return flight was quite different as we flew a lot lower and wide out over the Buccaneer Archipelago for a good look at the countless islands and bays that make up this spectacular part of the remote north west coast.

We travelled with Horizontal Falls adventures who were very professional and yet relaxed and laid back. All in all this was a most exciting and thrilling adventure and we cannot give enough praise to all the staff of this local family owned company. Special mention should go to Matt our pilot, Bill & Maria on the Lady M, but especially the youngest member of the family, Damien, our thrill boat pilot. Even though he is only in his early twenties he has already safely taken well in excess of 10,000 people through the falls, well done!

For more information go to www.horizontalfallsadventures.com.au

Gibb River road to Derby 11 - 13/8

Whilst we were set up at Windjana Gorge we did a day trip up the Gibb River road to Bell Gorge. Total distance was about 130 Km each way, all on unsealed road. We had heard many reports about the notorious Gibb and how people had done all sorts of damage to their vehicles. Damage like blown tyres, busted springs and blown-out shock absorbers. However the sections we travelled on were some of the best unsealed roads we had driven on, although care was still required on some sections and at the creek crossings. Turning off the Gibb towards the National Parks run Silent Grove Campground is a journey of 19 Km, then it is a further 11 Km to Bell Gorge. Many folks had told us that Bell Gorge is one of the best gorges along the Gibb, and of course it lived up to its reputation. A permanent stream flows across a large rock shelf before spilling over a wide multi-tiered waterfall into a huge deep plunge pool. As the day was quite hot we did not waste any time jumping in for a refreshing swim. After our swim we returned to the shady campground for a late lunch at one of the many picnic tables before making the return journey to Windjana.

An early pack-up the next morning saw us on our way towards Derby which was still about 150 Km away. All the maps show that only about 42 Km of this is sealed but we were pleasantly surprised to see now only about 20 or so Km are unsealed. On arrival in Derby we found that one of the caravan parks was booked out (the smaller one) but we had no trouble getting a site at the larger one. On checking in we mentioned that a priority for us was a trip to the Horizontal Waterfall and so the duration of our stay would depend on when we could get a booking. The caravan park is also a booking agent for the trips to the falls and when we mentioned that we wanted an overnight trip, Ian the manager suggested one that he said was absolutely 5 star, however like we had been told by many, he said he was not sure how long it would be before a booking became available.

Not long after we un-hitched the van Ian arrived on his push bike with some exciting news. The tour company had just rang to say that there was a vacancy for 2 people on this afternoon’s trip, and because it was only a couple of hours before departure they were offering a discount of $100 each. It took us just a few seconds to discus if we could be ready in time before we excitedly confirmed we would take it. This is an expensive trip and one that we had been wanting to do for a long time. In anticipation we had been economising wherever possible to allow ourselves to do it. Even so the cost has totally blown the budget and we will need to keep economising to help get the finances back on an even keel. Keep watching for a full report on this fantastic trip

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Fitzroy Crossing to Windjana Gorge 6 - 10/8

Making a good early start from Halls Creek we headed off to Fitzroy Crossing a distance of 290 Km. Making just one stop along the way we arrived in Fitzroy Crossing before lunch. A look around town did not take too long and we soon found ourselves at the old crossing point and the nearby inn that apparently is the oldest continually licensed pub in WA. Today it has attached to it a good gallery showcasing the works of local artists and on the other side a small caravan park. Because of the licensing laws in this part of the state the pub does not open until noon so we chose to make our own lunch in the van while we were parked on the shaded grassy verge of the park across the road.

Considering it to be a little early to stop for the day we decided to press on. We have a new book called Priceless Campsites in WA by Jan Holland. There is one for the north of the state and one for the south, and we have both, so consulting this book we found that a turnoff 43 Km east of Fitzroy Crossing would take us on the Leopold Downs road that loops around past Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge before joining the Gibb River road about 124 Km north-west of Derby. Just 11 Km along this road we found the Turn into a campsite mentioned in our new book. It is called the RAAF boab quarry and was the site of the quarry used to supply the material needed to build the Curtin RAAF base near Derby. Today the large pit of the quarry has filled with water creating a lake about 50 metres wide by several hundred metres long and about 2.5 metres deep. We set up camp amongst the numerous boab trees surrounding the lake and because it was so peaceful and relaxing we stayed for 3 nights.

We could have quite easily stayed at this wonderful bush camp another night or two but however decided to move on. Rejoining the Leopold Downs road we travelled towards Tunnel Creek. The 125 Km unsealed road, although generally good, has some rough patches and steep dips into a couple of creek crossings that can catch you out if you are travelling too fast. We arrived at the Tunnel Creek parking area for an early morning tea before venturing along the 1.7 Km return walk through the tunnel. Formed by a tributary of the Lennard River eroding a tunnel through the Napier Range this is the only place in WA where a river runs through a mountain. The walk takes you around some large boulders before entering the underground cavern that is about 500 metres long. It is totally black and you are wading through long pools of water that can be up to a metre or more deep. Fortunately during our walk the water was never more that knee deep. There has been a cave-in about half way along that allows the sunlight in, so the dark sections are not all that long, however you do need a very good torch. The tunnel is inhabited by several species of bats as well as small fish and freshwater prawns in the pools. Without a good light you would not get the full impact of the numerous large stalactites and wonderful limestone flows clinging to the walls in a number of places. This is a very rewarding, if a little challenging, walk to do and a great experience.

Just 24 Km from Tunnel Creek brings you to the 3 Km access road into Windjana Gorge. Adjacent to the day visitor area is the large campground divided into two sections, one allowing generators, and one a quiet area with no gennies allowed. Both are well served with flush toilets and solar heated showers. An afternoon walk into the deep gorge carved by the main arm of the Lennard River was very rewarding. The towering cliffs of this ancient Devonian reef are reflected in the large pools of water that is the Lennard River in the dry season and, if you look carefully, fossils of primitive marine creatures can be seen in the exposed walls of the deep gorge. The deeper pools of the river support a large population of healthy looking Barramundi (no fishing allowed) and Archerfish and the densest population of freshwater crocodiles we have seen. We were treated to the sight of a 1-metre croc patiently stalking a couple of Barra that were at least as long as itself. The walk along the gorge is 7 Km each way (we only went about half way) but the best of the scenery is in the first 500 metres. We enjoyed the company two couples camped nearby who brought their chairs and drinks under our awning for a late afternoon happy hour. After dinner we turned in reasonably early as tomorrow we will leave the van in the campground and do a day trip 120 Km up the Gibb River road to Bell Gorge.

Halls Creek & Wolfe Creek Crater 3-5/8

After our wonderful 2 days at the Bungle Bungles we headed to Halls Creek where we checked into the caravan park. The park is just fairly basic but has all the usual facilities, which allowed us to catch up on some washing. The next morning we arranged to leave our van at the park overnight for the princely sum of $2.50 so we could take the trip out to Wolfe Creek Crater. Before leaving Halls Creek we took a drive out to Old Halls Creek, the site of the original town during the short gold rush of the 1890’s. On the way we stopped to wonder at a formation called the China Wall. This strange looking natural formation is an almost perfect stone wall of hard quartzite rock sticking up above the surrounding strata. It is about a metre wide and up to four metres high and extends for more than a kilometre as far as we could tell. Made up of tightly fitting blocks of creamy quartz rock it would be a structure any landscaper would be proud of.

About 18 Km south of Halls creek you find the intersection of the Tanami Road or track as it otherwise known. The Tanami is the shortest distance from the Kimberley to the eastern states via Alice Springs. Alice Springs is over 1000 Km away but thankfully we only had to travel about 112 Km down the track to the turnoff to Wolfe Creek Crater. The Tanami is a pretty good gravel road, which, for the most part could be driven in a conventional 2WD vehicle, as long as you were careful. Not so the 23 Km access road to the crater. This road is very badly corrugated with washouts and potholes and in some places is strewn with sharp rocks, great care is needed. We set up our tent in the rather open camping area before taking the 500-metre walk to the crater later in the afternoon. Formed when a large meteorite crashed to earth some 300,000 years ago it is the second largest of its type in the world. Standing on the rim and looking across the 850 or so metres to the other side makes you glad you where not here when it happened.

After a peaceful quiet night we packed up camp and travelled back to Halls Creek where we re-fuelled and stocked up with a few basic supplies before returning to our van. Because it was now early afternoon we decided to stay one more night and get an early start the next morning.

Bungle Bungles 1/2 August 09

Situated some 180 Km North East of Halls Creek on the great northern highway is the turnoff to Purnululu N.P. and the Bungle Bungle Range. It is a fairly rough and corrugated drive of around 53 Km from the highway to the national park. This road is restricted to high clearance 4WD vehicles only, because of the rough terrain and several rocky creek crossings and caravans of any type are strictly not permitted to use it. Off road camper trailers are permitted and we saw quite a number of them in both of the campgrounds in the park. A lot of people just do a day trip into the park and then return to their van at the Spring Creek roadside rest area. This rest area is quite large and the lower section near the creek is really quite pleasant, and very popular so there is no shortage of other travellers to do the campers watch and look after the vans left there. We chose to leave our van overnight and camp out in the N.P. with our tent and camping gear.

Most Australians would have heard of the Bungle Bungles, and maybe have seen photos or TV shows about them, but believe me; nothing can prepare you for the awesome experience of actually being there. After paying your entry fee at the visitor centre it is then approximately 20 Km to either the northern or southern sections of the park. We did the southern walks first and then set up camp in the northern campground to relax for the afternoon, ready to do the northern walks the next morning. To us the southern walks are probably the most spectacular and we combined the three-day time walks into one big loop. The first section is the Domes Walk and then onto Cathedral Gorge and then Piccaninny Creek and lookout. The highlight would have to be Cathedral Gorge; there are just not enough adjectives or superlatives to describe this wonderful place. We were both overcome with a sort of spiritual and humbling feeling and a sense of awe at the power and majesty of Mother Nature. It would be hard to imagine how anyone would not moved after visiting this natural wonder. We had an added bonus during our visit when a young lady began to play the flute. With the fantastic natural acoustics the soft pleasant sounds filled the enormous cavern.

After setting up camp in the northern campground it was time to relax with a couple of drinks before dinner. We had dinner just on sunset and we, like most of the other nearby campers, turned in fairly early after what had been a tiring, yet very rewarding day. Next morning after breakfast and packing up the tent and gear we were off to do the northern walks. We started with the longest daytime walk in the park, Mini Palms gorge. We found this walk the most difficult, not because of the distance, but because you walk most of the way following the creek bed. The dry creek is a deep bed of gravel and waterworn stones of varying sizes and the loose and uneven nature makes walking strenuous. After this we walked the spectacular Echidna Chasm and then to the nearby lookout. The two sections of the park are quite different from each other. The southern section is comprised mainly of the well-known black and orange beehive domes, which are simply sedimentary sandstone laid down in distinct layers. The northern section is made up of jagged outcrops and eroded cliffs that are comprised of conglomerate rock.

We would definitely recommend to all Australians that a visit to this spectacular place should be a must

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Emma Gorge & El Questro

One major day trip we did whilst in Wyndham was down the Gibb River Road to Emma Gorge and El Questro. The first (or last, depending on your direction of travel) of this quite infamous road is in fact not too bad. Of course it is corrugated and very dusty but seems to get regular attention from the grader. This is something I guess you would expect because of the popularity of these two attractions and there certainly was a lot of traffic going to both.

Emma gorge was the highlight of our day and we would recommend to anyone who is going to spend a day like ours, to go to El Questro first before returning to Emma Gorge. Why? you may ask. Well Emma Gorge is just so fantastic that anything else for the rest of the day just does not measure up. It is quite a strenuous walk up to the gorge as you negotiate the rocks and boulders and cross the creek a number of times. At the end of the climb you are greeted by a most magnificent sight of a cascade and drip waterfall falling into a large crystal clear pool. Another tip we will give you is, don’t do what we did, and leave your swimmers back in the van, because the pool is very inviting and we sure could have had a cooling dip after our strenuous hike. We had to make do with a bit of a paddle and a splash of water on our faces and heads.

It is about 23 Km down the Gibb to the turn into Emma Gorge and then just a couple more to the carpark. Back on the Gibb it is a further 10 km to the turn into El Questro and then approximately 18 Km to the station township. During our visit we walked to Zeberdee springs and up El Questro Gorge, visited the small township and took the very steep 4WD track up to Saddleback Lookout. We had lunch beside the Jackeroos Waterhole, a pleasant shady spot. All of this is very much worth the effort and quite enjoyable. However as previously mentioned, the attractions of El Questro, although good, are just not in the same class as Emma Gorge, in our humble opinion.

There is camping available at El Questro and the camping areas we saw looked quite good. However, if you are considering visiting and staying at El Questro please be aware that since they have declared themselves to be a wilderness park or reserve they charge $17 per adult just to enter onto their property. Camping then costs $16 per person per night for an unpowered site. You do the sums, and then see if you think it is worth it.

Into Western Australia

It has become quite hard keeping this Blog up-to-date, mainly because there is only limited Internet access in the areas through which we are travelling. Being the people we are, we do prefer the more remote and secluded camping spots and any service available is only in the larger towns. Since our last post we have continued westward on the Victoria Highway, detouring into Keep River N.P. before crossing the border into Western Australia. The detour was a trek along a very dusty, but otherwise reasonably good gravel road to reach the northern most camping area. The camping areas in the park are very good and give you close access to some very good walks. The main walk from the northern campground is an 8.5 Km loop that is generally easy and takes in a great view of a mini “Bungle Bungles” formation.

The border crossing involves passing through a quarantine checkpoint. The restrictions are tight and rigorously enforced. During our crossing vehicles were banked up two lanes wide and six or more vehicles deep, and only two inspectors on duty. Vehicles and vans are thoroughly searched for fresh fruit and vegies as well as honey, all of which are not permitted across the border. Just after the border we turned off the highway to visit Lake Argyle and the Ord Dam. The dam holds back the waters of the Ord River creating the largest man made lake in the southern hemisphere, so large that it is classified as an inland sea. We had a good look at the dam and the relocated Argyle Downs homestead (home of the pioneering Durack family) before enjoying a wine and some nibbles and the sunset view from Pannikin Bay lookout.

From Lake Argyle it was back to the highway and then to Kununurra, the major town in the east Kimberley. We spent 2 days in town re-stocking and collecting mail before head out to Wyndham. Wyndham was much more to our liking, quiet and peaceful. We visited the prison Boab tree as well as the magnificent lookout where you can see the five rivers running into the Cambridge Gulf. Other attractions include the port, a museum and a really good bird watching location at Marlgu Billabong. From the Wyndham/ Kununurra area we travelled southwest along the Great Northern Highway through Warmun (Turkey Creek) to visit the Bungle Bungles (Purnululu N.P.) We hope to have Internet access to give you impressions of this iconic location in the next few days.