Making a good early start from Halls Creek we headed off to Fitzroy Crossing a distance of 290 Km. Making just one stop along the way we arrived in Fitzroy Crossing before lunch. A look around town did not take too long and we soon found ourselves at the old crossing point and the nearby inn that apparently is the oldest continually licensed pub in WA. Today it has attached to it a good gallery showcasing the works of local artists and on the other side a small caravan park. Because of the licensing laws in this part of the state the pub does not open until noon so we chose to make our own lunch in the van while we were parked on the shaded grassy verge of the park across the road.
Considering it to be a little early to stop for the day we decided to press on. We have a new book called Priceless Campsites in WA by Jan Holland. There is one for the north of the state and one for the south, and we have both, so consulting this book we found that a turnoff 43 Km east of Fitzroy Crossing would take us on the Leopold Downs road that loops around past Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge before joining the Gibb River road about 124 Km north-west of Derby. Just 11 Km along this road we found the Turn into a campsite mentioned in our new book. It is called the RAAF boab quarry and was the site of the quarry used to supply the material needed to build the Curtin RAAF base near Derby. Today the large pit of the quarry has filled with water creating a lake about 50 metres wide by several hundred metres long and about 2.5 metres deep. We set up camp amongst the numerous boab trees surrounding the lake and because it was so peaceful and relaxing we stayed for 3 nights.
Considering it to be a little early to stop for the day we decided to press on. We have a new book called Priceless Campsites in WA by Jan Holland. There is one for the north of the state and one for the south, and we have both, so consulting this book we found that a turnoff 43 Km east of Fitzroy Crossing would take us on the Leopold Downs road that loops around past Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge before joining the Gibb River road about 124 Km north-west of Derby. Just 11 Km along this road we found the Turn into a campsite mentioned in our new book. It is called the RAAF boab quarry and was the site of the quarry used to supply the material needed to build the Curtin RAAF base near Derby. Today the large pit of the quarry has filled with water creating a lake about 50 metres wide by several hundred metres long and about 2.5 metres deep. We set up camp amongst the numerous boab trees surrounding the lake and because it was so peaceful and relaxing we stayed for 3 nights.
We could have quite easily stayed at this wonderful bush camp another night or two but however decided to move on. Rejoining the Leopold Downs road we travelled towards Tunnel Creek. The 125 Km unsealed road, although generally good, has some rough patches and steep dips into a couple of creek crossings that can catch you out if you are travelling too fast. We arrived at the Tunnel Creek parking area for an early morning tea before venturing along the 1.7 Km return walk through the tunnel. Formed by a tributary of the Lennard River eroding a tunnel through the Napier Range this is the only place in WA where a river runs through a mountain. The walk takes you around some large boulders before entering the underground cavern that is about 500 metres long. It is totally black and you are wading through long pools of water that can be up to a metre or more deep. Fortunately during our walk the water was never more that knee deep. There has been a cave-in about half way along that allows the sunlight in, so the dark sections are not all that long, however you do need a very good torch. The tunnel is inhabited by several species of bats as well as small fish and freshwater prawns in the pools. Without a good light you would not get the full impact of the numerous large stalactites and wonderful limestone flows clinging to the walls in a number of places. This is a very rewarding, if a little challenging, walk to do and a great experience.
Just 24 Km from Tunnel Creek brings you to the 3 Km access road into Windjana Gorge. Adjacent to the day visitor area is the large campground divided into two sections, one allowing generators, and one a quiet area with no gennies allowed. Both are well served with flush toilets and solar heated showers. An afternoon walk into the deep gorge carved by the main arm of the Lennard River was very rewarding. The towering cliffs of this ancient Devonian reef are reflected in the large pools of water that is the Lennard River in the dry season and, if you look carefully, fossils of primitive marine creatures can be seen in the exposed walls of the deep gorge. The deeper pools of the river support a large population of healthy looking Barramundi (no fishing allowed) and Archerfish and the densest population of freshwater crocodiles we have seen. We were treated to the sight of a 1-metre croc patiently stalking a couple of Barra that were at least as long as itself. The walk along the gorge is 7 Km each way (we only went about half way) but the best of the scenery is in the first 500 metres. We enjoyed the company two couples camped nearby who brought their chairs and drinks under our awning for a late afternoon happy hour. After dinner we turned in reasonably early as tomorrow we will leave the van in the campground and do a day trip 120 Km up the Gibb River road to Bell Gorge.
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